Genova/Genoa

We know it as Genoa, a foreign land from which delicious sandwich salami hails, but here it's known as Genova.  A port town of about 600,000 inhabitants and a claim to Christopher Columbus' origins (to be debated by Spaniards).  Yesterday I took a day trip with the roommates to check out the capital of the neighboring region of Liguria.  A two hour train ride later, we arrived in Genova - a picturesque city by the sea with bitterly cold wind whipping through the streets and lovely views of surrounding hillsides.  Locally Genova is known for being a bit snobby, as it was once teeming with royalty - the proof's in the palazzos - but it's not considered as hoity-toity as Milano.

view of gardens and palazzo rosso.

In the Renaissance Genova was considered one of Italy's most important cities, with an extremely renowned painting school all its own as well as a port with access to France, Spain, and Africa for trade.  As a result this is a dynamic city with many different cultures, lots of good food and plenty of foreign influence.  We took a walk through the historic center and popped into the Royal Palace which overlooks the Ligurian Sea.  Incredible architecture can be found on each street, we even found the remnants of a medieval castle!

what remains of old fortifications for this port city.

Next on the to-do list was focaccia.  Yes, that tasty bread you find at the market often glistening with olive oil and sprinkled ever-so-slightly with rosemary.  My roommate Sara, a native Italian, told us focaccia in Genova is unlike any focaccia in Italy (likely the world).  I immediately spotted a focacceria and selected a tasty-looking number dotted with green olives.  And it was gooooood.  Somehow unlike any similar bread I've tasted, maybe thicker and somehow softer - it can't be captured in mere words, my friends.

doing the wind-blown hair thing.

One of the crown jewels of this city is the aquarium, in fact it's the 2nd largest in Europe and all Italians say it's a great place to visit.  We spent a few hours here checking out manatees, sharks, eels, dolphins, piranhas, penguins, seals, crocodiles, everything you could imagine!  I even mustered the courage to stick my hand in the petting tank and touch a ray - so slimy and fishlike, it was.  Lots of the exhibits allowed the visitor to stand right next to the tanks, meaning for the first time I was mere inches - nay, centimeters! - from some of the most beautiful creatures I've ever seen.  A very cool experience.

aquarium and pirate ship at porto antico.

these creatures are so very beautiful.

Back to food, though.  Genova is above all known for its pesto - all the locals are proud of the unique recipe that only Genovesi can boast.  An Italian friend of mine claims it's due to the way basil grows in and around the city which cannot be matched anywhere else in Italy.  Well, you know me, I'm not about to let Genova claim they've got the best pesto and not allow them to prove it - that'd just be rude.  Now I understand why they've got such a reputation, it was delizioso, people.  There are no words.

trenette al pesto = life-changing.

We also checked out 3 other palazzos - royal palaces with incredible collections of Caravaggio, Rubens and Van Dyck to name a few.  We had the opportunity to visit the roof of Palazzo Rosso, the former home of a Genovese duchess, which provided a most lovely view of the city at sunset.  Overall this was a wonderful day of discovering Italy and its many splendors.  I believe next on the agenda will be Bologna.  I hear they've got lunch meat as well...

view from atop palazzo rosso.