Rediscovering Torino

There's something about having a bike that gives you a new perspective on a city.  Maybe it's the fact that your usual mode of navigation is altered - you can steer away from main roads the buses and cars frequent and zip through side streets with ease and agility.  You can get places much faster than if you were on foot and, always a plus, you don't have to share a space on an overcrowded public bus with 78 sweaty Italians.

unrelated to this post, but I like it: urban art showcase, torino

I've been love love loving my new routine of walking down the steps of my palazzo in the late morning, greeting the doorman with a friendly "buondì" ("buongiorno" in dialect), grabbing my bike from behind the giant stained glass doors of the courtyard, hopping on and passing through the daily open market just below my window.  What joy, what bliss!  Now that's not to say I don't sometimes fear for my life a little bit when happening upon one-way streets or being forced into an ominous roundabout or bouncing along cobblestone streets with mid-morning traffic.  I get scared sometimes, but mostly I'm figuring out the best routes and discovering new ways to navigate the city.

In fact last week I discovered what I have been telling everyone is the coolest semi-hidden place in Turin.  Or at least it's my newest obsession and the novelty hasn't worn off yet.  I was perusing some travel blogs about Turin looking for exciting places to visit with my bike when I happened upon an article by an American living in Turin written about 5 years ago.  The article was describing locales that reminded her of the good ol' USofA.  Pub grub at the Huntsman: been there.  Shopping at Lingotto: done that.  Luxembourg historic bookstore with a large English section: interesting.  This led me to her page about places to enjoy a good book.  Probably the park, right?  As I said before there's no coffee shop culture here and you'd never see anyone reading a book while sipping an espresso.

Circolo dei Lettori: chi leggi vola (he who reads, flies)

The article suggested Circolo dei Lettori, or Circle of Readers, a cultural association dedicated to anyone and everyone that loves to read and needs a comfortable setting to enjoy a good book.  The space is located on the first floor of a beautiful 17th century palazzo - to get inside you must walk through the luxurious courtyard and buzz 1115# to be let up the marble staircase.  Once inside there is a welcome desk (with people who are actually helpful!) and a room full of modern clear plastic tables and chairs for dining.  Beyond this there is a bar/restaurant and walking back you are greeted by all the splendor of Circolo dei Lettori.  There are themed rooms - one outfitted with a billiard table and red leather chairs; another with antique green plush couches; even one with wicker hammocks.  The atmosphere is warm and magical.  All walls are covered in fabric and portraiture, the ceilings display frescoes and elegant chandeliers.

courtyard at the palazzo of Circolo dei Lettori

The beauty of this place, other than its aesthetic appeal, is that membership in the Circle of Readers is entirely free and open to the public.  Oh and there's an internet connection (unfortunately rare in Italy).  Meaning I can come here to study, bring my laptop and work, order a cappuccino and pen a few pages in my journal, meet a friend for lunch, or find a comfy corner and curl up with my current read.  Can you believe it?  For an American girl who's been missing terribly the coffee shop culture, this is nothing short of a godsend.  And could you imagine a more beautiful location than a 17th century Italian palace to go relax and read?  They also host exhibitions, book-themed dinners and authors talks.  And they have book clubs in original language - meaning that starting in September they'll have an English language reading circle!  Am I so incredibly elated by this discovery, you guys have no idea!

when you find a place to study more badass than this, please let me know

I went here the other morning to work on some translations I'm doing for my professor's cultural association and I found myself right at home.  There was no one else around, so I settled into the billiard room, plugged in my laptop, ordered a cappuccino and got to work.  I don't know why I'm so productive when I leave the house and put myself in another environment, it somehow forces me to do what needs to be done.  I just can't explain the beauty of sitting in this place in all its elegant solitude and working on a project.  Ah-mazing.

I'm looking forward to biking around this summer and discovering new places in and around Torino, as I'm convinced there is so much I still don't know about this city.  I've been here almost a year and just last week I happened upon a place that is now among my favorites.  What a beautiful life this is.