Aosta

I'm a few days behind on catching you guys up - do forgive me, as the life of a jet-setter is all but insipid.  Lately I've been doing that dastardly task you all know as homework, in addition I'm working on cataloguing items for the Anthropology Museum, and recently my Urban Development professor has enlisted me in correcting the English on his cultural association's website.  Add to that my weekend attempts to visit neighboring cities and you've got one busy lady.  

Aosta: historical center covered in snow!

On Saturday morning the roommates and I awoke at the ungodly hour of 7AM to catch a train north to the Valle d'Aosta.  Aosta Valley is a small autonomous region north of Piedmont bordering France and nestled gently in the frigid arms of the Alps.  Let me tell you that we couldn't have picked a more inconvenient day to visit this bilingual mountain region, for the reasons were two: there were apparently some strikes with the train employees (go figure, this is Europe) and this was the one day in months that it snowed in North Italy.  Now I know I can hardly complain about weather since those of you in Texas are experiencing a freak cold snap (*imagine me doing an animated snap motion here*) but bear with me on this one.  We rode the crowded train 2 hours north with possibly every middle-aged couple in Turin looking to have a fun day at the fair.

I'd fit right in with Renaissance fashion, I think.

At this point I should tell you my fun crazy weekend plan was visiting the annual Fiera di Sant'Orso (Festival of Saint Orso) or more commonly the annual Woodcarving/Folk Festival.  How old am I, again?  Yeah, I might as well be receiving AARP informational packets in the mail because I spent all afternoon in the snow elbow-to-elbow with a crowd that enjoys antiquing, a good game of pinocle, and probably telling everyone about their latest home renovations.  Even so, this festival is a tradition dating back to the year 1000 when Saint Orso, a hermit and mountain craftsman, brought down his handcrafted "bowls of friendship" to give to the less fortunate and share a traditional drink of very strong coffee and alcohol during the cold winter months.  Ever since then the artisans of the Aosta Valley have perfected their craft and gathered once a year to sell their goods and have a 2-day festival honoring the saint.

an example of the incredible talent seen at the festival

The day was quite enjoyable - the stands and booths were many and the crowd must have numbered in the thousands.  The constant falling of snow made the slow ambling of a festival turn into a huddled mass of people pushing through the streets, umbrellas bopping you in the head and snow accosting your red little face.  Yes, maybe I am too Texan for this weather.  At a certain point snow stops being a delicate blanket of white and it turns into the reason I start seriously worrying I may never have use of my toes again.  But the festival was lovely, artisans from all over the region were exhibiting their handmade goods: sculptures, bowls, utensils, tables, chairs, clothing, books, toys, wooden flowers, clocks - anything you could imagine being realized in wood, it was there.  We walked for hours along the ancient streets of Aosta and along the fortified walls, hearing both French and Italian being spoken across the crowds.  We stopped in the early afternoon for a plate of cheesy polenta and sausages being stirred in a huge iron pot by several burly old italian men.  I must say it was delicious and well worth the troublesome weather we endured all day.

frosty flowers made of wood

I purchased a cutting board from an old vendor lady who had been shaping and sculpting wood for years in the ancient traditions of the Aosta Valley.  This should be an excellent mate for my fancy new knife I received at Christmas and lead to some noteworthy cooking adventures.  Luckily we made it home despite being delayed a few hours due to train strikes.  I'm looking forward to the many wonderful experiences that await me here in the boot-shaped country - I just can't get enough of learning, exploring, honing my knowledge and expanding my opportunities!