Sunday, February 6, 2011

Bologna/Ravenna

And so I return from another Italian weekend adventure, exhausted yet exhilarated.  Georgina and I took the train early Friday morning about 3.5 hours across Northern Italy to the lovely region of Emilia Romagna.  We arrived in Bologna around lunchtime to find a slightly more populated and portico-ed version of our beloved Torino.  The youth demographic is staggering as the city boasts the world's oldest university established in 1088.  The sun was out all weekend as well as the locals, and coupled with the earth tones of the limitless porticoes - there was a certain warmth that I found truly refreshing.

kilometers of covered walkways.

We walked along the covered avenues, stopping at a small trattoria mentioned in one of Georgina's guidebooks to grab some tagliatelle alla bolognese.  I know it's touristy, but I can't very well go to Bologna and NOT try pasta alla bolognese - and good thing I did because it was ah-may-ziiiing!  That certain warmth I was talking about even translated into great service.  Our waiter was excited to inform us all the pasta was made fresh in house, though that warmth may have been too much when he went to grab my menu and "accidentally" let his hand linger on top of mine.  Creeper alla Bolognese.

that's what I'm talking about.

After this delicious meal we headed to the two towers of Bologna, the oldest of which, Torre Garisenda, was built in the 12th century but foundational problems lent to a Pisa-like lean.  The taller of the two is Torre Asinelli and tourists are invited to climb the 498 steps to the very top where the view of the city can only be described as breathtaking (as if the climb wasn't already).  In an even more touristy fashion I decided to take a video with ye olde iphone to commemorate the feat from 90+ meters above the city.



Following the descent back to ground level we promptly decided our recent undertaking merited a celebratory gelato.  (As a sidenote, other things that merit a gelato pitstop are: successfully passing an exam,  finding a 2-euro coin in your pocket, and simply spotting a gelateria on any and every street corner).  We sat on the steps in front of Basilica San Petronio in the giant Piazza Maggiore at the center of Bologna to enjoy our ice cream.  The sun was beginning to set, families were out and about, other students sat across the steps, pigeons cooed and searched for scraps, a bell tolled at the clock tower, and that moment was somehow endless.

me in piazza maggiore.

Later we checked out the University and the National Picture Gallery, then we met up with our host for the evening - a friend of a friend who agreed to show us around and provide a place to sleep.  Again, I must underline the unbelievable sense of selfless hospitality here.  Enrico took us on a walking tour of Bologna by night, showed us some places popular among locals, and even ordered us Campari Spritz with a slice of orange so we could experience a true night in the city.  The next morning he prepared us a caffe (espresso by our terms) and we were off to Ravenna, a smaller medieval town known in particular for its illustrious mosaics.

Basilica di San Vitale.

An hour and a half later we arrived and were surprised to be greeted by buses upon buses of tourists - many more than Bologna.  We traversed the small historic center, stopping in the many churches and admiring the area's incredible talent for the mosaic craft.  Basilica di San Vitale was by far the most mesmerizing sight to behold, with every surface covered in the grandest detail by tiny shimmering tiles that somehow come together to depict elaborate scenes.  One of the main attractions in Ravenna is the tomb of Dante, which we were both very excited to behold.  The remains of one of the greatest poets known across the world can be found here (much to the chagrin of the Florentines who exiled him during his last years and would desperately like him back).

which is it, I wonder?  paradiso - purgatorio - inferno

Soon after we headed back to Bologna and had a few hours to check out the huge neighborhood markets before catching the train back to Torino.  We had a lovely time, saw a lot of indescribable art, enjoyed some true Italian hospitality and were able to experience Italy from a new point of view.  Can't really beat those weekend plans.

1 comment:

  1. Loved the video and your use of meters to describe the height, you're becoming so very Italian! :) Miss you much, but glad you're enjoying yourself!

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